When visiting Canyonlands National Park in Utah we stopped at a turnout that had a view of the canyons below. What blew us away was the dirt road we could see snaking around to the bottom.
We just had to find out what that was and if we could drive down. So we visited the Park’s visitor center to find out more about this trail.
We learned that this was The Shafer Trail, an iconic road that descends 1,500 feet (457 m) through a colorful, massive sandstone cliff. Original a route made by Native Americans to access resources on the mesa top it is now a challenging, unpaved backcountry road for recreational users seeking the experience of a lifetime. We also learned that our “All-Wheel-drive” Subaru would not do – we would need a High-clearance 4WD vehicle with a low range gear in order to do the trail..
Determined to do the trail, we ended up renting a Jeep Rubicon 4×4 for a day, a car that met these requirements. We had set aside a full day for the adventure and headed off to the trail head, totally not knowing what to expect. The only bit of advice we received was “Turn left at the old shack, otherwise you’ll get lost for a few days and we’ll need to come rescue you”. So, with that, very, reassuring snippet of information, we set off on this adventure. Here is a brief video as we start the Trail (but before it gets “scary”).
After about a mile, along the relatively flat and even dirt road, we got to the hair-raising switchbacks seen in the picture above. We figured that the “easy approach” was just to calm your nerves, before it got scary! And scary it is! You look out the window and see . . . nothing. A sheer drop. You are literally just a foot away from the edge. I found myself not looking out the window, just white knuckling the steering wheel and focussing on the dirt road in from of me. Talk about an adrenaline rush!
After what seemed like an eternity, we got to the bottom. We were IN THE CANYON. The first thing I did was get out and kiss the ground!
After out heart-rate returned back to normal, we set out to explore the rest of the Trail. We knew the Trail was “one way”, you emerge near a tiny settlement called Potash, where you get back onto paved roads, not too far from Moab.
We were not really prepared for the sheer magnificence of these canyons! They are nothing short of amazing! No number of superlatives will do these scenes justice, and the following picture don’t even come close either.
This whole area is referred to as “The Colorado Plateau” and the canyon formations is a product of the Colorado and Green rivers, which snake through the area, eroding and carving away the red sandstone. A process that takes millions of years. Driving through the area gives one a distinct “Wild West” feeling, an atmosphere few people today will aver experience. Only American Indians, cowboys, river explorers and uranium prospectors have dared enter this rugged corner of Utah. This is wild America!
As we approached the end of the trail, the geography returned to “somewhat normal” .. i.e. not the barren, eroded, red-rock formations we saw on the Shafer Trail. Instead a more tranquil views of the river and sandstone rocks with the odd sign of civilizations, not the wild, rugged and rock sight we experienced all day.
We arrived here late afternoon, having spent a full day on the Shafer Trail… and yes, we DID turn left at the old shack (which was very easily identifiable) and NO, we did not get lost nor did we need rescuing!
We were promised this would be the trip of a lifetime, and it is. We will treasure the memories of this trip for may years to come.
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